Principles of pattern making for a basic shirt.

Experiment No.: 08

Experiment Name: Principles of pattern making for a basic shirt.

Introduction:

Patterns are paper templates for all the components of a garments such as cloth,lining,interlining which have to be cut for a garments.These patterns are used to draw sketch on cloth or marker paper.Pattern making depends on skillness,Technological knowledge,Analysis of design and experience of garments making.In sewing and fashion design a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled.

Objective:

1. To know the make a pattern according to measurement.
2. To guide the student to take proper measurement.
3. To show the students independence to accuracy when pattern is done.
4. Making basic adaption to pattern to accommodate the lay.

Necessary Measurement:

1. Neck size=40 cm
2. Chest=100 cm
3. Scye depth=24.4 cm
4. Natural waist length=44.6 cm
5. Half back=20 cm
6. sleeve length=80 cm
7. Cuff size=23 cm

Figure:

                                               Fig: pattern making of a shirt (Body section).

Working principle:

At first indicate "0" point at a corner of a graph paper,then form '0', the line is extended (0-A) and from '0' drawn a straight line (0-B) at 90 degree angle with (0-A). Then:
(0-1): Scye depth +4 cm. then from 1 drawn a straight line in right side at 90 degree angle with(0-1).

(0-2): Natural waist length +3 cm,then drawn a straight line at 90 degree angle from 2 to (0-2) at right side.
(0-3): Shirt length+8 cm, then a straight line at 90 degree angle from 3 to (0-3) at right side.

(1-4): Half chest +12 cm, then extend 4 to 5 in the up and 6 in down at 90 degree angles with (1-4).

(0-7): One fifth if neck size -0.5 cm, then from 7, drawn a line in the up at 90 degree angles.

(7-8): 4.5 cm ,then drawn the neck curve according to figure.

(0-9): One fifth if (0-1) + 2 cm,then from 9 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angles with (0-9) in the right side.
(9-10): Half of back +4 cm, then from 10 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angles with (9-10)in the upper and lower side and indicate 12&11 respectively.

(12-13): 0.75 cm,then added 8 to 13 by slightly curved.

(10-14): 10 cm.

(10-15): 0.75 cm,then added 14 to 15 by slightly curved.

(1-16): Half if the measurement of (1-4) + 0.5 cm, then from 16 dawn a straight ine at 90 degree angle with  (1-16), so that got 17& 18 points.

(5-19): 4.5 cm, from 19 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angles with (5-19) according to figure.

(19-20): One fifth of neck size -1 cm.

(19-21): One fifth of neck size -2.5 cm, then drawn the neck curve.

(10-22): 1.5 cm , then from 22 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angle with (22-11) at right side.

(20-23): Measurement of (8-13 + 0.5 cm, then added (20-23) by slightly curved.

(1-24): One third of chest + 4.5 cm.

(24-25): From 24 drawn a vertical line of 3.0 cm with (1-24) at 90 degree angle in the upper & then added 23 to 25.

(23-26): Half of (23-25), then added 13,10,16,25,&23 and from 26, made arm hole by drawn a curve in the inside of 1.0 cm.

(21-27): 1.5 cm button stand,then from 27 drawn a horizontal line with (21-6)ion downwards.

(27-28): 3.5 cm for facing , then from 28, drawn a horizontal line with (21-6) in downwards and made a curve from 28 at upper by equalized with the neck curve.

(17-29): 2.0 cm

(17-30): 2.0 cm

(18-31): 20.0 cm,then drawn two lines at negative direction with each other from 31 to (18-31) at 90 degree angle.

(31-32): 1.0 cm

(31-33): 1.0 cm, then drawn two curves f 16,30,33, and 16,29,32 and mad side seam lines.

(34): Drawn a midpoint of (6-18)and made a vertical line form 34 with (6-18).

(35): drawn a midpoint of (3-18).

(34-36): 4.0 cm, then from 36, had drawn a horizontal line with (6-18) at right side. Then drawn the curves of (33-35) and (32-36) according to fig, If it is needed to keep pleat in the back of shirt then draw a horizontal line with (9-37) i.e. 2.0 cm from 37 to (9-3)line.In this way the half of face and back side of a shirt can be made.

Conclusion:

From this experiment,we learnt to pattern make according to measurement.It is helps to make working pattern which is produced sample making for bulk production.We also learnt about different parts of garments which is sketch on the pattern paper.It is helps to increase our knowledge of future practical life.