Principles of pattern making for a basic shirt.

Experiment No.: 08

Experiment Name: Principles of pattern making for a basic shirt.

Introduction:

Patterns are paper templates for all the components of a garments such as cloth,lining,interlining which have to be cut for a garments.These patterns are used to draw sketch on cloth or marker paper.Pattern making depends on skillness,Technological knowledge,Analysis of design and experience of garments making.In sewing and fashion design a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled.

Objective:

1. To know the make a pattern according to measurement.
2. To guide the student to take proper measurement.
3. To show the students independence to accuracy when pattern is done.
4. Making basic adaption to pattern to accommodate the lay.

Necessary Measurement:

1. Neck size=40 cm
2. Chest=100 cm
3. Scye depth=24.4 cm
4. Natural waist length=44.6 cm
5. Half back=20 cm
6. sleeve length=80 cm
7. Cuff size=23 cm

Figure:

                                               Fig: pattern making of a shirt (Body section).

Working principle:

At first indicate "0" point at a corner of a graph paper,then form '0', the line is extended (0-A) and from '0' drawn a straight line (0-B) at 90 degree angle with (0-A). Then:
(0-1): Scye depth +4 cm. then from 1 drawn a straight line in right side at 90 degree angle with(0-1).

(0-2): Natural waist length +3 cm,then drawn a straight line at 90 degree angle from 2 to (0-2) at right side.
(0-3): Shirt length+8 cm, then a straight line at 90 degree angle from 3 to (0-3) at right side.

(1-4): Half chest +12 cm, then extend 4 to 5 in the up and 6 in down at 90 degree angles with (1-4).

(0-7): One fifth if neck size -0.5 cm, then from 7, drawn a line in the up at 90 degree angles.

(7-8): 4.5 cm ,then drawn the neck curve according to figure.

(0-9): One fifth if (0-1) + 2 cm,then from 9 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angles with (0-9) in the right side.
(9-10): Half of back +4 cm, then from 10 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angles with (9-10)in the upper and lower side and indicate 12&11 respectively.

(12-13): 0.75 cm,then added 8 to 13 by slightly curved.

(10-14): 10 cm.

(10-15): 0.75 cm,then added 14 to 15 by slightly curved.

(1-16): Half if the measurement of (1-4) + 0.5 cm, then from 16 dawn a straight ine at 90 degree angle with  (1-16), so that got 17& 18 points.

(5-19): 4.5 cm, from 19 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angles with (5-19) according to figure.

(19-20): One fifth of neck size -1 cm.

(19-21): One fifth of neck size -2.5 cm, then drawn the neck curve.

(10-22): 1.5 cm , then from 22 drawn a straight line at 90 degree angle with (22-11) at right side.

(20-23): Measurement of (8-13 + 0.5 cm, then added (20-23) by slightly curved.

(1-24): One third of chest + 4.5 cm.

(24-25): From 24 drawn a vertical line of 3.0 cm with (1-24) at 90 degree angle in the upper & then added 23 to 25.

(23-26): Half of (23-25), then added 13,10,16,25,&23 and from 26, made arm hole by drawn a curve in the inside of 1.0 cm.

(21-27): 1.5 cm button stand,then from 27 drawn a horizontal line with (21-6)ion downwards.

(27-28): 3.5 cm for facing , then from 28, drawn a horizontal line with (21-6) in downwards and made a curve from 28 at upper by equalized with the neck curve.

(17-29): 2.0 cm

(17-30): 2.0 cm

(18-31): 20.0 cm,then drawn two lines at negative direction with each other from 31 to (18-31) at 90 degree angle.

(31-32): 1.0 cm

(31-33): 1.0 cm, then drawn two curves f 16,30,33, and 16,29,32 and mad side seam lines.

(34): Drawn a midpoint of (6-18)and made a vertical line form 34 with (6-18).

(35): drawn a midpoint of (3-18).

(34-36): 4.0 cm, then from 36, had drawn a horizontal line with (6-18) at right side. Then drawn the curves of (33-35) and (32-36) according to fig, If it is needed to keep pleat in the back of shirt then draw a horizontal line with (9-37) i.e. 2.0 cm from 37 to (9-3)line.In this way the half of face and back side of a shirt can be made.

Conclusion:

From this experiment,we learnt to pattern make according to measurement.It is helps to make working pattern which is produced sample making for bulk production.We also learnt about different parts of garments which is sketch on the pattern paper.It is helps to increase our knowledge of future practical life.

Study on Components of a Basic Shirt.

Experiment Name: 03

Experiment No.: Study on Components of a Basic Shirt.

Introduction:

A shirt is Cloth garment for the upper body. There are various types of shirt for men and women. Basic shirt is one of them.there's nothing more classic than a woven collared shirt.this shirt has a formal collar a full length opening at the front from the collar to the hem and sleeves with cuffs. It is a very important to know component of a shirt.

Objectives:

1. To know the all component of basic shirt.

2. To know the different typos of machine are produced.

3 .To know the different types of trimming or accessories.

Component of a basic shirt:

1. Collar.

2. Collar band.

3. Yoke.

4. Left front part.

5. Right front part.

6. Back part. 

7. Sleeve. 

8. pocket.  

9. front pocket.

10. Upper sleeve.

11. Lower sleeve.

12. Cuff.

Trimming for a shirt:

1. Sewing thread.
2. Button.
3. Label.

•  Main label(Brand or company name)
•  Size label(S,M,L,XL,)
•  Care label. 
•  Composition label.
•  Price label.

 4.Interlining.
 5. Motif.
 6. Neck board. Back board.
 7.Plastic color insert.
 8. Hang tag.
 9. Price ticket.
10.Tag pin.
11.Tissue pepper.
12. Poly Bag.
13.Butterfly.
14. Hang tag.

Figure:-

                           

                          

                                                      Fig: components of Basic shirt.

 Machine required for making a shirt:

1. Plain (Lock stitch) sewing machine.
2. Over lock/edge neatening sewing machine.
3. Flat lock machine.
4. Button holing machine.
5. Button attaching machine.
6. Feed of the arm machine.

Number of fabric cut pcs. required for a basic shirt:

For making a basic shirt. 21 cut fabric pcs are required. They are as follow:-

1. One pcs cut fabric is required for left front part, right front part, back part, pocket or front pocket. 

2. Two pcs cut fabric is required for collar collar band yoke sleeve upper sleeve lower sleeve.

3. Four pcs cut fabric is required for cuff.

Number of pattern required for a basic shirt:

For making a basic shirt 12 pcs pattern is required they are as follow :

One pcs pattern is required for collar, collar band, left front part, back part, sleeve, pocket,front pocket,upper sleeve, lower sleeve or cuff.

In the modern times various types of changes are brought in the basic pattern. The manufacturer wants to full fill the market demand and they brought changes to the basic patter of a "basic shirt" The basic shirt could be used as formal purpose.

Required Materials:

1. Pencil.
2. Paper.
3. Pen.
4. Eraser.
5. Ruller /scale.

Working procedure:

1. At first we have taken a basic shirt figure. 
2. Then shirt by using various materials such as - scale pencil, eraser, paper etc.
3. Draw the yoke of the shirt.
4.  Draw the part of the sleeve on the underside of the arm. Starting at the top of the shirt side correct the upper and lower sleeve lines with a line that goes across the arm and wraps behind it at ends.
5.  Draw the vertical line on the sleeve and bottom part at the shirt generally this is the main working procedure of a basic shirt.

Conclusion:

By making shirt , we are getting so much foreign currency. Even year we are exporting many garments good like. It we remain quality shirt, we can catch full massive international garment market. so it is very important side.